SD Wednesday July 13 Afternoon

Next was the Crazy Horse Memorial, a colossal project that will not be completed in my lifetime. The $10 admission goes to a nonprofit organization, and the remaining plans will need tons of money. Our first step was watching the orientation video and learning about the dream forged by sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski and Lakota Chiefs. Family members continue to make slow progress; his wife and six of their ten children currently work on the monument and project. The museum has already gathered a massive collection of collections. Huge buildings and decks make up the complex and include studios, tools, home, crafters workshop, etc. Of course, we took one of the granite chunks offered from previous mountain blastings, and it now rests in the MN backyard landscaping.

Somewhere along the way we passed Harney Peak and finally reached Mount Rushmore close to 7:00pm, much later than we thought. Although the memorial is free, parking costs $11 for cars. A blinding sun about to set behind the carved images, Washington specifically, made photography iffy, so we watched the video in the amphitheater and learned more about sculptor Gutzon Borglum. By its end, the lighting was better outside and I took a few photos. I must say that after the immense Crazy Horse Mountain, the Presidents looked smaller by comparison. Crazy Horse is also idealized, a vision of imagination since no photo or drawing of him existed for reference. The four Presidents looked like, well, themselves. Tons of people were taking seats for the light show scheduled for 9:00, even though it was more than an hour away. We made a tough decision and left to have dinner in Hill City, but first a Corona from our cooler.

Our goal in Hill City was to have dinner at the Alpine Inn, and we were definitely hungry for the highly recommended German food.  That place was so crowded, people spilling into the bar and out on the porch waiting for a table.  After waiting for forty-five minutes with our name on the list, we got a lovely table next to a window.  Since we had spent part of our wait in the bar studying the menu, we let our waitress know that we were ready to order right away.  She said great and asked whether we would have the eight ounce or the six ounce.  We said, “What?” She repeated the question about ounces.  Again, we said, “What?” She said, “Filet. Six ounce or eight ounce.  Alpine Inn has a set menu we have been serving for dinner for twenty-seven years: six or eight ounce filet, baked potato, Texas toast, and iceberg lettuce wedge with homemade ranch dressing.” We asked about the menu we saw in the bar.  She said that menu was only for lunch, but they did have a dessert menu to use after dinner.  We looked at each other and burst into laughter, big laughter.  She looked confused and repeated the set menu for us again as if we hadn’t heard her the first time.  We gave up (uncle, calf rope, etc.), ordered, enjoyed a great meal done right, and skipped dessert, although I think we were the only people in the restaurant who did.  Leaving tomorrow morning meant doing some packing tonight. 

SD Wednesday July 13 Morning

Waking up to another morning of rain with low visibility, we decided to remain in Rapid City until the Journey Museum opened at 9:00. We were the first ones inside, but a tour bus soon followed us. Great orientation video in the auditorium gave us perspective for the museum and its exhibits. Buzzing through the timelines, we paused for whatever interested us most and observed many kid stations for hands-on interaction. Very popular museum for all ages! Trinkets and treasures in the gift shop grabbed our attention but not our money.

Rain stopped but thickly overcast skies lingered. We drove toward Custer State Park hoping to find wildlife willing to be wet. On Iron Mountain Scenic Drive, we took most pullouts, especially those with Mount Rushmore in the distance. After one tunnel, I looked back and took a stunning photo of Rushmore visible through the tunnel; later I saw a postcard having that identical view, so my shot was not all that original.

At the park entrance and other spots, signs warned that buffaloes are extremely dangerous, so we kept that in mind. Wildlife Loop Road through the park lived up to its name. Bison were near and far and crossed our road at several spots. Our total sightings numbered over 300, some very close to our car, even within touch range, but we didn't. My camera stayed busy. A few not-so-wild donkeys approached our car expecting, actually demanding, snacks. I rolled down my window to take photos, and while looking through the camera, failed to realize how close one had come. I hurriedly started rolling it shut, almost catching the donkey's lip. Close call for both of us! The rest of the trip I had a streak of his saliva on the window to remind me. We stopped at a prairie dog village and watched those pesky rodents entertain travelers who left their cars to throw peanuts, sunflower seeds, etc.

In one of my brochures, I noticed a feature named Badger Hole, home of Charles Badger Clark, South Dakota's First Poet Laureate. Screech! Turn right on the next gravel road. There stood the cabin he built for himself near a lake, no running water, no electricity, ever. Stepping inside, I felt like one of his many visitors and almost smelled the flapjacks he passed to deer through his kitchen window. Books in place, typewriter on table, boots lined up along a bedroom wall, photos everywhere, the man's spirit and craft permeated the entire structure. Maybe he was just away enjoying a walk around the lake. As we drove on, I kept thinking of Virginia Woolf's contention that every woman needs "a room of one's own."

Our journey continued up the Needles Highway, through more tunnels (not my imagination that they kept getting narrower), past Cathedral Spires, Needle's Eye, and Little Devil's Tower. We pulled out at most opportunities, sometimes hiked, sometimes took photos. At Sylvan Lake we saw huge rock counterparts to Neal's jumping rock at the main swimming hole. Swimmers of all ages respected the sign forbidding jumping and diving and braved what we determined to be very cold water. A walking path circled the lake, popular with us and other tourists. We stopped at the store for a couple of souvenir items and spied a drink cooler with beer, especially Corona. Without much hesitation, we bought a six-pack to have on hand in case of a thirst emergency, one now guaranteed to happen. 

Almost Red Convertible Rental

If you squint. Really really tight. Almost.

SD Tuesday July 12 Afternoon

In the car and on to Lead (pronounced "leed") to visit the old railroad roundhouse, now art gallery, restaurant, and gift shop, of course. Cutest in there was the store clerk's baby, but she was not for sale. Further in old town was The Big Cut, remnant of the Homestake Gold Mine. Big and deep it was indeed.
Noticing that it was the proverbial five o'clock somewhere and the actual five o'clock here, we thirsted. For wine. Checking resources, I found two tasting rooms nearby, and wouldn't you know it, they were both back in Deadwood. What to do but backtrack. SD vineyards are much like MN vineyards in that they love their sweet stuff, especially berries and rhubarb. Gingerly trying not to step on toes, we chose drier varieties and bought a bottle at each place: Dakota Breeze from Belle Jolie and Blackberry from Schade (family name originally pronounced "shay-dee" but moved accent from first syllable to second syllable to create "sha-day" and thereby eliminate any references to a shady business making and selling shady wine -- oops). We'll share with daughter and sil this weekend. For dessert.
With day ending, we drove to Rapid City for the Prairie Edge experience: spacious tri-level store, art gallery, books, jewelry, beads, craft stations, clothes, moccasins, toys, and most items high quality and pricey. One silver ring caught my eye, and after learning the story behind it, I was a buyer. It tells the story of First Rain with a lightening-bearing raven and ten smaller birds flying randomly.
Ready for dinner, we found the Firehouse Brewery next door, waited for a table, drank a brew, and ate. The place was packed, and all the kiddos got red plastic fireman hats, us included. Noise included the baseball game on multiple screens, so J was okay with that. Looking around the area afterward, we checked out the Wine Cellar Restaurant across the street but knew we would be too far away from town for another meal there.
Finally we landed at the hotel for bedtime and planning another day. Cool weather continues with heavy skies.
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SD Tuesday July 12 Morning Photos

Spearfish Creek

Cool morning in Sturgis

RIP Bill and Jane

Bridal Veil Falls

SD Tuesday July 12 Morning

After breakfast we headed for Sturgis and a quick drive through. The town looked so normal, almost sleepy, but then we were there about 8:00am, took a couple of photos, and noticed fewer Hogs than Leakey on a busy day.
From the town of Spearfish, we drove south on the Scenic Byway along Spearfish Creek. Scenery was every shade of green interrupted with rock formations. Shadowy canyons made photography difficult with my iPhone, but we stopped at most pullouts to take in the views. Bridal Veil Falls was a much touted highlight, even though I thought more of those imposing granite towers.
In Deadwood we parked at the History and Information Center in the old railroad depot and plunked coins in the parking meter. Once again friendly workers mapped out some must-sees and we took off to explore. The nearby Adams Museum was filled with all the memorabilia necessary to explain early Deadwood, all it's wild history, and the metamorphosis into tamed community, including all the casinos, one owned by Kevin Costner. I was most intrigued by the Adams family and the fact that this memorial was built by a prosperous businessman to honor his wife and two daughters. So of course our next stop was the Adams House.
Adams bought the House from fellow successful merchant Franklin, who left most of its contents. Then due to family tragedies, the house eventually stood untouched for fifty years with everything in place, even cookies in the biscuit jar. I had never been in a historic house so authentic. Every turn had the original whatever in place and only unnoticeable cosmetic repairs; restoration focused on structure and cleaning. Now owned by a historical group and funded by gambling commissions, it is a treasure defying time.
Just outside Deadwood and up the hill at Mount Mariah Cemetery, we paid our respects to Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. I had the opportunity to take a picture of a man standing on a retaining wall next to a sign saying "Absolutely no climbing or standing on retaining walls" but I was laughing too hard. We also respected the gift shop and bought magnetic bottle openers and a thin cookbook.
Literally down in downtown Deadwood, we walked the main street, bought Jim a cap, added more souvenirs to our growing stash, strolled through Saloon #10 where Wild Bill played his dead man's hand, and lost count of how many businesses had some type of gaming machine. In the Saloon I watched a family speaking only French take photos of numerous locations and items, laughing and chattering, wide-eyed and giddy, evidence that the USA has kept its international appeal for the Wild West, at least in saloons.
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Bison

In Custer State Park bison walked toward us, kept coming, and went across the road. During the next few minutes we saw at least 300 and could have touched many of them. Shaggy and majestic!

Sumo

That's the only way to explain the noise last night in the room above ours: sumo wrestler. The weighty feet (and I imagine the rest of him) were tromping heavily across his floor and our ceiling. At least he was early to bed and late to rise so he didn't disturb my sleep. Yikes! I said HE when maybe the offender was a SHE!

Not

This is the car we didn't rent. I asked for a red convertible, but that didn't happen. I'll post a photo of the car he did rent when I get over it.

SD Monday July 11

"See you Friday" took a little longer than expected this morning, a new concept from the usual goodby that promises we'll see them in a few weeks. Hugs and kisses collected, suitcases loaded, lunch packed, maps and itineraries within easy reach, we began our adventure.
We made excellent time, stopped a few places, collected travel brochures, browsed merchandise, and appreciated pleasant encounters with other tourists and shop workers. About every hour we saw a state-run facility for travelers, so rest stops were never a problem, not quite as luxurious as Bucky's but close enough.
We entered The Badlands. Dramatic structures, cathedral spires, yellow mounds frosted with maroon, lots of pullouts at viewpoints, boardwalk trails, archeological finds, only one tour bus, and a brief sprinkle of rain.
Next stop was Wall Drug, a place we might have skipped until we heard too many people claim it was an experience not to be missed, at least once. We did our once. The complex covered more than a city block with a maze of wares pocketed in small sections and corners, all claiming organization, even though workers met every question with puzzlement. Our departure was more like an escape, and we left without spending any money. We knew we were licked when we wandered through their restaurant into a water play area next to vintage photo booths and giant animal sculptures. Whew! Someone could live out a life in there. Reminds me of a movie I saw a few years ago.
Going to Rapid City we drove through a wild and windy thunderstorm. This was the dark sky and lightening we had watched toward the west earlier on our way to Wall. When we reached our hotel, the only activities remaining were dinner and bed, and we were ready for both. End of day one.
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